Adriatic Adventures
Good afternoon everyone! Welcome to the last blog before I head off next week to join “Misr” for six weeks as we sail up and down the majestic River Nile. Whilst the latest Covid figures thankfully indicate that cases are decreasing, I am still taking the sensible option of keeping something of a low profile in the week before I join the ship. Since I last wrote I have been to visit my parents, celebrated a friend’s daughter’s first birthday, and watched Brighton draw at home against Chelsea and away at Leicester City. After much encouragement from the passengers on my last “Island Sky” cruise, I finally managed to have my eyes tested last week. As had been pointed out to me by almost everyone who had witnessed me struggling with my notes during the Briefings, it was confirmed to me by the optician that the time has come for varifocals. I researched at what age people usually require varifocals, and the answer came back that it can be any time from 40 onwards. As I’m now 43 I didn’t feel so bad to discover this is normal. The highlight of all those events was being able to visit Ella the day before her first birthday. As well as taking along a present and a card, I decided I would bring my bright green descant recorder with me. Impressively, Ella waved her arms in time to the music as I played her “Happy Birthday”. It also served as a warning for Ella’s parents of the years of descant recorder practice that may soon be echoing around their home. One of my distinct memories of playing the recorder at primary school is that there was a lunchtime ‘recorder club’. I was one of the few males who attended. However, the teacher then decided to introduce the treble recorder, which as many readers will know, has different fingering. However, the teacher decided that only the girls could learn the treble, as the boys were only capable of the descant. As it was in those days, I didn’t think anything of it, but you probably wouldn’t get away with that now! At secondary school, I even accomplishing some grade exams in the descant recorder, and as a reward I was bought a tenor recorder (same fingering but an octave lower) by my parents. I never have tried the treble. I then didn’t play the recorder for many years, until I found one in the piano stool whilst visiting my parents. I picked it up and discovered I could now play by ear! How that change has come about, I don’t know, but it’s rather fun to include it occasionally when I do a music-themed quiz on board the ships. During the French-themed quiz on the ‘Passage South’ cruise, I’ll never forget having Christiane Ely and myself stand in front of the passengers in the Club and have everyone perform “Frère Jacques” in-the-round whilst doing the actions. I still say that my side of the room were louder!
The guide leads us through the National Park on the island of Mljet, Croatia. 17th October 2017.
At the end of my last blog, I said I would have a look at the Balkans this week. The coast of Croatia must be one of the areas that is most visited by our various ships. Whilst the ocean-going ships make occasional calls, we also have the regular seasonal charters of “Queen Eleganza” – purpose-built for that coastline. I had the pleasure of being the tour manager on her predecessor, “Royal Eleganza”, back in 2017, and loved the style of cruising. The “Eleganza” style is that you make the most of your time in Croatia, with a few overnight stops included where you dine ashore. With only 36 passengers, friendships form quickly and it made for wonderful evenings ashore in restaurants recommended by our excellent Croatian guides and crew. One such place was Šibenik. Whilst on our tour of the town earlier in the day, the guide pointed out a variety of eateries, all with a different speciality, and within easy walking distance of the ship. The restaurants also helpfully took Euros as well as the Croatian Kuna. It’s often a source of confusion how Croatia is in the EU, but does not (yet) use the Euro; whereas neighbouring Montenegro is not in the EU, but does use the Euro.
The stunning waterfalls of Krka National Park, Croatia. 6th May 2017.
The following day, having explored Šibenik the previous day, we would venture further afield and enjoy a beautiful walk along the boardwalks and paths of Krka National Park. I remember this part of Croatia being billed as, “The Land of the Falling Lakes”, and when you walk around Krka National Park you realise how apt the title is. Some of the water was wisely channelled to power mills, a few of which have been restored, whilst the rest of the water forms beautiful terraces of waterfalls. I would love to return one day with one of those cameras that can have a long exposure and make the water look like it is falling in one smooth movement.
Sailing into Split, Croatia. 5th May 2017.
Another place where we would dine ashore was Split. Those of you who have sailed on the “Serenissima” will know that any visit to Split is always rather special for Noble Caledonia. The deck and engine crew of the “Serenissima” are all Croatian, and when I was last on her, all-but-one were from Split. Even if we arrive there on a ship that isn’t “Serenissima” the crew from her who are on leave are always keen to welcome us and proudly show us around their stunning home town. As you can see above, Diocletian’s Palace (4th century AD) dominates the waterfront. The bell tower belongs to Split Cathedral, otherwise known as the Cathedral of Saint Domnius. The bell tower was built in the 12th century, but the cathedral itself was originally the Mausoleum of Diocletian, and dates from 305 AD. As with all Croatian ports, it was a pleasure to get lost in the maze of narrow streets and find beautiful little cafés and coffee bars to enjoy.
Sailing into Omiš, Croatia. 4th May 2017.
One of the ports that the “Queen Eleganza” is small enough to reach, is the delightful town of Omiš, at the mouth of the River Cetina. On that day we strolled through the town and joined an even smaller ship for a trip up the river, passing through a vast canyon landscape. The river is the largest in Croatia in terms of outflow. We took the local boat upstream and, after weaving through the mountainous surrounds, ended up in a former industrial mill area, which has been superbly converted into a restaurant and leisure complex. I am all for this reinvention of places. In my recent travels around England, I have found it saddening to see various industrial sites in a state of disrepair, and yet new houses and flats being built on greenbelt. Surely it is better to use land that is already occupied? My main memories of that day were that it felt like we were sailing through a postcard as we headed up and then downstream.
The beautiful inner harbour of Hvar, Croatia. 29th April 2017.
One of the ports that is visited by both the likes of “Serenissima” and the Skys, as well as “Queen Eleganza”, is Hvar. In a similar way to nearby Korčula, both places are the true brochure image of Croatia. I can remember, whilst working on a previous cruise line where shore excursions were sold at a high price to the passengers, being told off by the ship’s management. I had been tasked with delivering a port talk, and waxed so lyrically about Hvar and Korčula that the passengers didn’t book any tours and just explored the respective islands at their leisure. They all came back and told me it was an excellent choice, but the accountants didn’t see it that way. That is why it is wonderful to be working for a cruise company where such activities are included, and therefore you can decide for yourself whether or not you wish to take part in the excursions. Hvar is fairly flat in the town area near the berth, whereas Korčula is a peninsula based on a hill. The streets all lead up to the main square, except one street which goes in a circle on the same contour. This street is called the “Street of Thoughts”. The name came about because it is the only street where you can get lost in your thoughts and not have to think about when the next step is coming along!
A rare claim to fame in Rab, Croatia. 20th October 2017.
Another Croatian island that we have visited is Rab, however, as you can see above, more famous people have visited in the past. King Edward VIII and Wallis Simpson undertook an Eastern Mediterranean holiday on board the steam yacht “Nahlin” in August and September 1936. The yacht is still in service, and is now owned by Sir James Dyson. Simpson’s presence on board the yacht first led to the world being aware of a potential crisis looming. Newspapers in the USA published front-page photographs of informal photos of Edward VIII and Simpson together, but the British media voluntarily didn’t publish them – how times have changed! The rather brilliantly named “HMS Glowworm”, a Royal Navy destroyer, escorted the yacht throughout the trip. As far as I am aware, the only two places that are named after King Edward VIII are a pier in Douglas Harbour on the Isle of Man, and an 850ft waterfall in southern Guyana. However, his name lives on in Rab!
The Church of St Donatus and the Bell Tower of Zadar Cathedral. 25th April 2017.
Whilst all the islands of Croatia have a magical appeal about them, the various ports on the mainland have a huge amount to recommend them as well. On the occasion of my “Royal Eleganza” cruise, I embarked in Zadar. The next day we explored this impressive city. The above photo is a wonderful mix of architecture. The circular building is the Catholic Church of St Donatus. As you might suspect, the church was built on top of a Roman Forum, and our guide was keen to point out that fragments from the forum can still be seen in the foundations of the church. The bell tower of Zadar Cathedral (dedicated to St Anastasia) also has a fascinating history. The first two storeys were built in 1452, but it was not until 1893 that Sir Thomas Graham Jackson was hired to complete the tower. Jackson is more famous for his work in Oxford, including the Bridge of Sighs over New College Lane. Another feature of Zadar was the waterfront pipe organ. The promenade had been built with various holes underneath, so that the waves would come in underneath the promenade and the air would rush up through reeds that would create a sound similar to an organ. Quite ingenious and, as our guide said, it meant that no two walks along the promenade were ever the same.
Looking down on the walled city of Dubrovnik. 30th April 2017.
After looking at Zadar, I was going to say that we will continue our look at mainland Croatia by focussing on the “Pearl of the Adriatic” – Dubrovnik. However, I guess that technically Dubrovnik is not part of mainland Croatia. It is not a well-known fact that the county in which Dubrovnik resides is an exclave of Croatia, as it is bordered by Bosnia & Herzegovina and Montenegro. Bosnia & Herzegovina possesses twelve miles of coastline at Neum, cutting off Dubrovnik from the rest of Croatia. However, since 2018, the Pelješac Bridge has been under construction, and is due to fully open in June this year. The bridge will link Dubrovnik with the rest of Croatia without the need to cross the Bosnian border (twice). I can still remember the first time I ever visited Dubrovnik. The only time I had ever seen or heard of it before was on the BBC News. The Siege of Dubrovnik lasted from 1st October 1991 to 31st May 1992. I was 13 at the time and remember it often being featured on the evening news. If you’d told me then, that ten years later I would visit there with a cruise ship and wander those same streets that were being shelled, I definitely wouldn’t have believed you. I have been fortunate enough to visit Dubrovnik many times, but with our itineraries you often have longer there than the usual day-trippers. To walk the streets in the evening, when the mass of tourists have vanished, is sublime. On one occasion, as you can see, I took the cable-car up to look down on the city. At that point, I realised how vulnerable it was during that siege. Thank heavens that sanity eventually prevailed.
The famous Mostar Bridge in Bosnia. 18th October 2017.
Speaking of that conflict, the other defining image to me occurred on 9th November 1993. That was the day when the Mostar Bridge, which had stood for 427 years, was destroyed. The bridge was rebuilt and opened on 23rd July 2004. Today, it has become a tourist hotspot. However, very few, if any, ships visit Bosnia & Herzegovina. With just the one port and only twelve miles of coastline, the freight traffic has to take priority. However, I was keen to visit Bosnia ever since I realised that it was the only country with a coastline on the Mediterranean and Black Sea that I had not taken a ship into. My ambition was fulfilled when we arrived in Ploče, Croatia, and took a coach across the border (being checked both ways) into Bosnia. The reconstruction has been done wonderfully sympathetically. One of the highlights was watching the divers jump off the bridge. I can give you a clue if you are ever in Mostar… the divers are stood there topless for a long time while they generate interest and pretend they’re going to dive. However, they will only dive whilst wearing a wetsuit. When they disappear and then come back wearing a wetsuit, then that is the time to have your camera ready!
The island churches in the Bay of Kotor, Montenegro. 30th October 2019.
And finally… I hope I can be forgiven for extending the scope a little further and visiting Montenegro. The mouth of the UNESCO-listed Bay of Kotor has Croatia on one side, and Montenegro on the other, but once you arrive in Kotor, you are in the true Montenegrin territory. I can vividly recall my first ever visit to Kotor. On 3rd June 2006, Montenegro became an independent nation (having been part of “Serbia and Montenegro” immediately prior to that). I arrived on a ship on 5th June 2006. We had sailed past the two iconic island churches, shown above, which feature on the front cover of most Montenegro guidebooks. I was on the Bridge and we were about to raise the flag when I pointed out to the Captain that we had what was now the old flag. A mild panic ensued and we decided not to raise anything to be on the safe side. The pilot then came on board. He was a proper pilot. A polished uniform, a big beard, and a hat. He pointed out that we were not flying the Montenegro flag. The Captain looked embarrassed and apologetic. The pilot then let out a hearty laugh and opened his briefcase. Inside was a neatly folded flag of Montenegro that his wife had made the night before, as he’d guessed that we wouldn’t have said flag on board. The look of relief on the Captain’s face was one I’ll never forget. That also summed up the warmth of the people of this region. The scenery, the red-tiled roofs, the Mediterranean climate, the Italian-influenced food… if I was told I could plan to one day retire to anywhere in the world, I would put the east coast of the Adriatic very high up on the list. For now though, a holiday along its fabulous coastline on a small ship is definitely the way to appreciate it. I will be back with another blog upon my return from Egypt. In the meantime, my very best wishes to everyone.
Click here to view details of our small ship cruises to the Adriatic