Islands on the Edge
19th to 31st May 2018
Portsmouth to Aberdeen aboard the MS Serenissima
Saturday, 19th May 2018 - Portsmouth, UK
It was a beautiful day in the south of England. Untypical I am told, and not just because it was the day of the Royal Wedding of Prince Harry and Meghan Markle. The sun was shining in a cloudless sky as 91 guests arrived by all means of transport to the Arrivals Terminal in Portsmouth to board our lovely Serenissima. After a thorough security check and a short bus transfer, we were welcomed aboard by our expedition team and amazing crew. There were drinks, sandwiches and cakes as refreshments before we found our way to our cabins, some not easy to find aboard this quirky intrigue of a ship, built in the late 1950’s and still running on its original engine. We settled into our cabins before meeting in the Andrea Lounge for a lifeboat safety drill given by our first officer, followed by the donning of our lifejackets on the outer decks. In a few more minutes we were introduced to the Expedition Team and Expedition Leader Emma Hansen gave us a virtual tour of the ship. Mike Bowan, our Zodiac Master, gave us a briefing on Zodiac operations for the upcoming excursions and then Emma returned to describe the following days’ activities which awaited us. As we sailed away from Portsmouth harbour we were invited back to the Andrea Lounge for Royal Wedding cocktails and a chance to be on the outer decks to see some of the more remarkable sailing vessels of Britain, including the HMS Victory, which Lord Nelson captained to fight in the Battle of Trafalgar and the newest aircraft carrier HMS Queen Elizabeth. It was a gorgeous sunset as we sailed away from the harbour and southeast to our first destination of the voyage in the Channel Islands. A buffet dinner was enjoyed in the Venice Restaurant and then we tucked into our cabins for our first night aboard our new home.
St Peter Port
Sunday, 20th May 2018 – Guernsey and Herm, Channel Islands
We awoke to beautiful blue skies, just off the coast of France in the Channel Islands. Our first stop this morning was in Guernsey at the town of Saint Peter Port. We got to use our fleet of Zodiacs for the first time for a nice run into the protected harbour from our anchorage. The Serenissima was dwarfed by another cruise vessel from Holland America, which was anchored nearby and using their tenders to come into the port at the same floating pier of Albert Quay. Being a Sunday in May, there was bound to be some sort of festival on, and we were not disappointed. Today happened to be a street fair in aid of animal protection services. There were games, food stalls and pop-up gift shops to stroll through along the seafront, as well as many local families and their four-legged pets. But this was for later, as we had come to see some of the island and the main sights of Saint Peter Port. On a walking tour, many of us set off with local guides from Albert Quay, visiting the seafront promenade first, where we learned of the history of the island during World War II and the difficulties of life as a German occupied land. We walked to the Church, which stands beside Albion House (a pub), making it the closest church to a pub in the world, a Guinness Book World Record. In fact, the gargoyle extending from the eave of the church seems to be reaching out to get a taste of a local pint!
We continued on the seafront toward the causeway which took us to Castle Cornet. This 800-year-old fortification used to be on an island until it was connected to the town via the causeway. It has seen countless battles and skirmishes up until the 20th century, but is now a museum dedicated to the castle and military history. We were guided through the interior and then had time to explore the many winding paths and gardens as well as the wonderful museum exhibits. Some stayed to watch the firing of the noonday gun while others opted to explore the town of Saint Peter Port.
Others in our band of travelers opted for a coach trip around the island. This included a visit to the Little Chapel, built by hand by the local priest out of smashed ceramics and pottery that had been discarded by island inhabitants. It makes for an eclectic and truly captivating chapel that is unique in its zaniness. It was so popular among the church community that the priest was asked to create a few others for other parishes. Amazing views of the channel were had at a lookout point and exploration of the old World War II gun batteries on one of the highest points of the island. Last we visited the beach and community outside Saint Peter Port with its wonderful gift shop, café and display of an old Roman ship, preserved in a humidified room. After the visit there was time for a quick stroll around the port before returning in our Zodiacs to the Serenissima for a tasty buffet lunch.
We took to the Zodiacs again in the afternoon for a visit to another of the Channel Islands at Herm. There were a few walks around the island guided by our expedition team. One group attempted to circumnavigate the island, while another headed north and east to Shell Beach for some beach combing. The short walk went up to the small village with shops selling summer items and of course, ice cream! There were many wildflowers in bloom, lighting up the landscape with a burst of colour. The sun shone down as we discovered the wild parts of this small island paradise.In the evening we gathered in the Andrea Lounge for a cocktail party hosted by Captain Etien Bonacic and a few members of his crew. He gave us a brief history of this wonderful vessel and welcomed us all aboard with a champagne toast. Afterwards, we dined in style, with the Captain hosting a table and everyone looking fabulous in their evening finery. Our onboard entertainer, Rene, played songs in the Andrea Lounge for those that wished to join for a nightcap and we sailed overnight back across the English Channel.
St Agnes
Monday, 21st May 2018– Tresco and St. Agnes, Isles of Scilly
Another day of sunshine? Can this be happening? Our ship was safely at anchor near Tresco this morning and a local tender tied up to our gangway for a short ride to the concrete jetty of Carn Near on the island of Tresco. The Smith family created a beautiful garden here in the mid-1800’s, inspired by gardens from France, England and indeed, all over the world. The existing Abbey grounds were transformed by Augustus Smith and his ancestors into a delight of plants and flowers from as far as New Zealand, Chile and India. After a nice stroll from the jetty to the gardens, we split into small groups for a guided tour led by the gardeners who maintain the property. The bromeliads and rhododendrons were in full bloom, as well as the various species of proteas from South Africa. The ship figurehead displays, statues and fountains accentuated the wonderful tapestry of floral colours as well as the introduced red squirrels and golden pheasants for which Tresco is famous. After our visit we returned to Serenissima for lunch.
In the afternoon we visited another of the Isles of Scilly, St. Agnes, which is actually two islands in one. At high tide, the sand beach connecting St. Agnes and Gugh is submerged, making Gugh its own island twice a day. Since we arrived at low tide, we were able to walk across this beach and circumnavigate Gugh with a few of the expedition team, stopping at a Neolithic standing stone and a boulder beach to see a shelduck and oyster catchers feeding amongst the seaweed. Other groups went around the island of St. Agnes for spectacular views of Tresco, Bryher and Saint Mary’s. But in the end, everyone ended up back at the Turk’s Head pub near the pier for a coffee or well-deserved pint in the late afternoon sun before getting back on the local tender to return to the Serenissima. Back aboard, we had our first lecture from special guest speaker John Love, who recounted his involvement in the project to reintroduce the white-tailed sea eagle to Britain. The success of the program was only possible by his expertise and passion. We hope in the coming days to see the fruits of his labours as we sail around the British Isles and Ireland. Our first Recap and Briefing included a wildflower identification summary from Ian Jansma and an explanation of the tides by Colin Munro before Emma gave us a briefing of what was to come the following day.
Bantry Bay House Gardens
Tuesday, 22nd May 2018 – Bantry Bay, Ireland
Ahhhhh Ireland! Land of limericks, leprechauns, laughter and lilt. But sunshine? Don’t bet on it. Except today was glorious. Not a cloud in the sky as we sailed into the tranquil waters of Bantry Bay in West Cork. After a short Zodiac ride to the floating pier, we were greeted by our local guides and boarded coaches for what must be the shortest bus transfer ever in Noble Caledonia history, 500 meters down the road! Our destination was Bantry House, a 200-year-old estate along the bay with spectacular views of the mussel farming buoys and platforms. The house and estate were created by the White family, who were awarded an earldom until it was vacated in the late 19th century. Now the estate is run by Sophie Shelswell-White and her family, who still live at Bantry House. Sophie gave us an anecdotal tour of the interior of the house, with its ornate architecture and wonderful pieces of furniture and art collected by her ancestors. The gardens were in bloom with azaleas and rhododendrons as the sun invited us to roam the grounds.
In the afternoon we visited yet another garden, this time on the island of Ilnacullin (or Garnish Island). We journeyed from Bantry by Zodiac and coach to Glengarriff and then by local ferry to Garnish Island, stopping by a colony of common seals basking on the rocks, doing yoga poses, in the bay. The gardens of Ilnacullin are graced with a temperate climate that allows species from all over the world to grow, with New Zealand ferns and Indian magnolias amongst the local plants. A series of follies (a Greek temple, an Italian casita) complete the other-worldly atmosphere of this island oasis. Our local guides cajoled us with Irish tales as we returned to Bantry and our floating home. The sun set as we sailed out of Bantry Bay and headed west along the Kerry coast before heading north from our most westerly point of the voyage.
Moher, Aran Islands
Wednesday, 23rd May 2018 – Cliffs of Moher and Aran Islands, Ireland
Sunny Ireland! Once again we were coaxed onto the outer decks after breakfast by rays of sunshine and spectacular scenery. We had sailed past the Skellig Islands overnight and were now heading to the Cliffs of Moher in County Clare. These incredible cliffs are made of limestone and shale, extend 14 kilometers north to south and reach a height of 214 meters. Phew! No wonder they are one of Ireland’s most popular tourist destinations. The cliffs seemed to be alive with birds as well. There were flocks of guillemots, razorbills and puffins dotting the water’s surface as well as a whole colony of moon jellyfish just below. Captain Etien and his bridge team took the Serenissima dizzyingly close which gave us excellent views from the front viewing platform right up the cliff face. The tourists on the edges above us seemed like ants silhouetted in the morning sun. We sailed the length of the cliffs to the town of Doolin, famous for its music festival then turned to port and headed for the Aran Islands 25 miles off in the Atlantic Ocean, in view of Galway Bay.
John Love regaled us with another presentation, this one about Ireland. He guided us around the Emerald Isle, highlighting some its more colourful historical characters, authors and actors and describing some of the places we will be visiting in the coming days.
We arrived at the furthest Aran Island, Inishmore, just after lunch. Going ashore in our Zodiacs, we were met at the concrete pier in the town if Kilronan for a transfer by small coach across the island to the visitor’s center of the famous fort known as Dun Aengus. This two-thousand-year old fortification is one of the best preserved circular fort complexes in Ireland, known for its four concentric guard walls and chevaux de frise (a field of upturned sharp stones designed to stop attacks from horse-riding invaders and to slow troops on foot). It was a healthy walk up a stone path to get to the fort, perched on a cliff overlooking the sea, but well worth the effort. The views were incredible and the sunshine welcomed us to the top for a view across Galway Bay. Back in Kilronan, there was ice cream to tempt us and many hand-knit sweater shops for perusal as well as the pubs and cafes to soak in the Irish charm. As we set sail northwards, a pod of common dolphins took a liking to the Serenissima and followed us for several miles giving us a display of acrobatics in the late evening light.
Thursday, 24th May 2018 – Tory Island, Ireland
Yet again the morning sun shone upon us as we awoke on the Serenissima. After a buffet breakfast attended by our incredible dining room staff led by maître d’ Renato Jacinto, we split into small groups to explore the engine room of the ship. The guided tours were led by our ship’s engine team, descending to the lower decks to view the heart of the ship, with its propeller shaft, cylinders and various control systems. Not in bad shape for a lady built in 1959!
In the mid-morning we reconvened for a briefing from Emma about our visit to Tory Island followed by an informative talk from our resident botanist, Ian Jansma. He gave us an overview of plant species identification and things we have seen on our journey so far. But of course, the highlight of the day was our visit to Tory Island, located off the Donegal coast in the northwest of Ireland. Our Zodiacs arrived in the harbour and were greeted by Patsy Dan Rodgers, otherwise known as the King of Tory Island. Filled with enthusiasm for his island and its history and inhabitants, the King guided us on a walking tour across the island to the lighthouse. He explained the way of life on this remote, treeless domain and gave us an insight into what it takes to live here. Many residents greeted us as we strolled by, then chatted with the King in Gaelic (which still is spoken as the first language here).
Others chose to go with expedition guides Colin Munro and Conrad Weston to the other side of the island to take in the magnificent views from the high cliffs located there. The views were not the only reward for the hike to the top of the cliffs. There were an abundance of seabirds nesting here, including puffins and fulmars. The sky was alive with the activity of these birds and the sunshine made for truly wondrous photo opportunities. After our walks, we joined the King at the Harbour View Inn for a pint of Guinness on the house. While we sipped our stouts, the man himself played traditional tunes on the accordion and chatted away while the sun got lower in the sky. Finally, we had to make our way back to the ship for a recap and briefing from the expedition team before another scrumptious dinner.
Friday, 25th May 2018 – Iona, Staffa and Lunga
Welcome to sunny Scotland! It isn’t every day you get to say that, but indeed it was a beautiful morning. We took our boats ashore in Iona to visit the amazing monastery of Saint Columba, an Irish saint who established this place as one of the holiest sites in Christendom and also famous for the monks’ creativity in art and sculpture culminating in the creation of the Book of Kells. This hand-written copy of the old testament was wondrously illustrated in colours and pigments made from the flowers and minerals on Iona itself. The monastery was created by Columba in 563 AD with 12 of his followers and quickly gained fame as a pilgrimage sight upon his death. Over the years the Vikings raided this site numerous times resulting in the Book of Kells and many treasures being moved to Ireland. We toured the church with audio guides and wondered at the many relics on display, including the oldest Celtic cross in the world. Several people took a walk with John and Conrad to see if they could find the elusive corncrake, but alas, it did not show, although they were at least able to hear one or two from their hiding places in the nettles.
We repositioned to Staffa during lunch, and the conditions were so good that Emma decided to offer a surprise landing and Zodiac cruise to the small volcanic island. The rock formations of hexagonal basalt columns make this a fascinating place to explore, and is interlinked with the Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland. The legend says that they were linked by a basalt bridge connecting the homes of two giants, until one, Benandonner, decided to attack the other, Fionn MacCool (or Fingal). In the end, Fingal tricked his rival and the causeway was broken, leaving only the sites in Northern Ireland and Staffa. We landed on a concrete jetty and carefully walked along the hexagonal steps to Fingal’s Cave, an impressive split in the columns leaving a cave filled by the rushing swell of the sea. Back on board, John Love gave a short presentation of photographs of Staffa in all seasons and times of day accompanied by Mendelsohn’s classic Hebridean Overture, which was inspired by his visit to Fingal’s Cave on Staffa.
The day was full already, but there was more to come. We repositioned once again, this time to an emerald green small island called Lunga, for our third landing of the day. The journey via Zodiac was wet and bumpy and the landing was onto slippery, seaweed covered rocks and over boulders, but it was well worth it. What awaited us was a breeding colony of the Clowns of the Sea, the Atlantic puffin! There were also guillemots, razorbills, skuas and kittiwakes galore but the star of the show were the pint-sized puffins and their wonderful antics. Coming in and out of their burrows and making their trademark laughing calls, they delighted us for a few hours of late afternoon sunshine amidst the wildflowers and green grass of Lunga. What a day! After dinner we retired for a well-earned rest.
Canna
Saturday, 26th May 2018 – Loch Scavaig and Canna
We anchored off the Isle of Skye in the night and awoke to calm seas and the beautiful mountain vistas of Loch Scavaig. Our morning excursion was via Zodiac to a metal staircase erected on the igneous gabbro rocks of southern Skye. We set off in walking groups to explore the area, visiting the enchanting glacier lake called Loch Coruisk, with some venturing further up the valley. The light wind kept the midges away while we enjoyed views across the lake to Cuillin Hills (actually mountain peaks) rising a few hundred meters above us. This glacial valley had been carved through the hard rocks millennia before, leaving behind erratic boulders perched on the bare rocks above us as the glacier receded. Wildflowers bloomed, including blue bells and orchids, and pipits, terns and cuckoos called out to us. There were a few stands of snow still lingering on the mountain tops which feed this serene lake. As we departed, we cruised by a colony of common or harbour seals basking in the sun on low-lying rocks. With their doglike faces and stubby, sausage bodies, they stared at us as if they had never seen a human before. This uninhabited portion of Skye is really a wonder, seldom seen and a distinctly untouched wilderness.
As we sailed north to Canna, John gave us a description of the surrounding islands like Egg and Rum, and we came to the outer decks to view this spectacular scenery. Before long we were at our anchorage and ready to go ashore again, this time to an island inhabited by only 20 people, Canna. Our local guides took us on a walking tour along the seafront road to see the two churches and Canna House, which is the home of the island’s archives of Celtic language literature (amassed by Dr. John Lorne Campbell and his American wife, the talented photographer Margaret Fay Shaw) and has a lovely garden. At the second church we headed into the pasture land of sheep and highland cows, through the forest to see an ancient Celtic cross. After the walk, many enjoyed an ice cream at the island’s only café and some enjoyed a pint in the shockingly hot sunshine, looking into the bay to see oystercatchers and eider ducks. We returned to the Serenissima and came to the Andrea Lounge to hear John Love’s talk “The Natural History of St Kilda”. Since we would be visiting this island group the following day, it was appropriate to hear all about the history and flora and fauna of this wild, seldom visited speck of land in the Atlantic Ocean. The sunset was quite lovely as we sailed west to St Kilda.
Sunday, 27th May 2018 – St Kilda
It’s almost a pilgrimage to come to St Kilda, and there was trepidation among the ship whether we would be privileged with the right sea conditions to make a landing here. We needn’t have worried, you could have skipped a stone on the calm waters of Village Bay as we sailed to our anchorage at Hirta, the largest and most well-known island in the group of islands known as St Kilda. The warden, Peter, came aboard after breakfast to brief us on the regulations for visitors of the island. A resident of Canna, he welcomed us to this remote place, the westernmost point in the UK, forty miles from the Outer Hebrides, isolated by the Atlantic Ocean and the last point before you reach the North American continent. The island has had inhabitants for thousands of years, with the last residents choosing to be evacuated in 1930. They left behind a unique culture and lifestyle, one that relied on the local seabird population and the sheep and crops they could cultivate on this treeless landscape. They built their houses of stone and turf, and burned the fatty oil of the seabirds for their fuel. John Love, who himself has written a book on St Kilda, led us around the old village, with its church, schoolhouse, post office and stone homes and blackhouses as a reminder of days gone by. Life was hard for the few St Kildans who eked out a life here, descending cliffs to gather bird eggs (guillemots, fulmars and gannets among others) and the birds themselves. They stored as many as they could higher up the slopes in cleits, beehive stone huts that acted as drying rooms and refrigerators. The occasional St Kilda wren flitted around the stone walls of the village as we made our way, ending in the cemetery.
Others opted for a bit of a hike, clambering up the slope to the cliff edge known as The Gap to see the fulmars and skuas up close. They glided right by our heads, to and fro from their nests below us, as we enjoyed a dramatic view of the island of Boreray beyond. Afterwards, we came back to the abandoned village to explore, and of course pop into the gift shop. This destination is a highly sought prize on many people’s wish list of travel spots, and to see it on a cloudless day with time to reflect and soak it all in left us with a feeling of fulfillment, topped off by cruising in our Zodiacs along the rocky coastline of Hirta and Dun to see the birds up close as well as poke into a sea cave or two.
We ate lunch anchored in Village Bay and then Captain Etien and his team took us on a ship cruise of the entire island group. As John provided commentary on the tannoy, we sailed past Dun and Soay, with its famous sheep which are now feral and left to their own accord, then around Hirta and across to Boreray. There are several sea stacks around this former volcanic caldera, but none more important than Stac Lee and Stac an Armin just off the coast of Boreray. The captain deftly circumnavigated Stac Lee, twice, and we came out on deck to witness a truly remarkable site. The number of gannets nesting on this sea-swept rock sticking straight up out of the sea is astounding. Besides Bass Rock, this is the largest gannetry of this species in the world, and they were flying overhead, beside and all around us as we sailed around their craggy home. We were in awe at the spectacle!We set sail for Stornoway, on the Isle of Lewis, and Conrad Weston gave us a presentation on seabirds that we had seen and hope to see in the following days. At recap, we watched a vintage short film of footage taken at the turn of the 20th century when St Kilda was still a thriving community, then heard from John, Ian and Colin about seaweeds, wildflowers and the Flannan Isles, which we passed a few hours later framed in the setting sun. Those few who were still out on deck in the late evening were lucky enough to see several basking sharks near the ship as we sailed east.
Lewis Island
Monday, 28th May 2018 – Lewis and Harris
One island, two names. Lewis and Harris is the largest island in the Outer Hebrides, and famous for Harris tweed, the Lewis chessmen and the home of Donald Trump’s mother. Today we were alongside the pier in Stornoway, a town of several thousand people, dominated by the grounds of Lewis Castle. We met our coaches and local guides here and embarked on a morning tour to see the sites of ancient Lewis. The scenery was exquisite as we headed north across the moors. Newly cut peat was drying in the sun, and the hills that geographically separate Lewis and Harris could be seen over the heathland. Our destinations today included the Callanish Standing Stones, Dun Carloway Pictish Broch and the Gearrannan Blackhouse Village. The standing stones are one of the best examples of ancient man’s attempt to connect with the heavens. Called “Scotland’s Stonehenge”, the circle of stones, made of Lewisian gneiss, are aligned like a compass in the shape of a cross. The inner circle once had a burial chamber and is accented by a stone of nearly 5 meters in height. On the spring solstice, the moon aligns with the stones and a nearby hill shaped like a woman, Mother Earth, leading archaeologists to believe that the site was dedicated to worshipping the moon. Most impressive of all, these stones were moved across the island and erected 5000 years ago, making this site older than the pyramids of Egypt.
We drove a few kilometers from Callanish to the Pictish broch at Dun Carloway. A broch is a double walled conical tower made of stone. Almost 2500 years old, this structure was used as a homestead for several families as well as a defensive fortress in times of strife all the way into the 1500’s. A short walk up through the heather gave us a chance to step inside this broch and see what it would have been like to live here ages ago. It has been partially taken down, with the stones used for walls and blackhouses nearby, but the effect is still the same. It took incredible skill to build such a tower, with an outer and inner wall containing a staircase up to the higher levels and a lookout over the island.
From here we drove to the coast and visited a restored blackhouse village at Gearrannan. Blackhouses are the traditional homesteads of Scottish crofters, and these were inhabited until 1973. The peat was the fuel used to heat and cook, and several of the stone walled and thatched roof houses have been restored to give the idea of what life was like for these rural farmers. An older chap manned the loom to demonstrate how the famous Harris tweed is created, and we had a chance to purchase the authentic material in the gift shop after our visit. Back on the bus, you could still smell the thick aroma of burning peat as we made our way back to Stornoway.
After lunch we anchored at a small uninhabited group of islands called the Shiants. They are privately owned, and the only evidence of humans are wooden fence posts keeping the grazing sheep from wandering off the basaltic cliff edges. We took to the Zodiacs for an hour of exploration around the coastline. And what a fantastic journey it turned out to be! There were puffins, razorbills, guillemots, shags, fulmars and eiders on the water, in the air and on the islands wherever you looked. Recently rat free, due to an aggressive eradication program, the seabird populations have exploded. Not to be outdone, common seals basked in the sun and curiously approached our Zodiacs in the sheltered coves. But most exciting were the white-tailed sea eagles, majestically circling above us. They call them the flying barn door because of their massive wing span, and it was exhilarating to see a few of them so close up. The sea has eroded the basaltic columns over the eons, creating sea caves and tunnels to explore in our rubber boats. With another day of sunshine, we couldn’t believe our luck as we cruised the calm waters and wildlife of the Shiants. We sailed north after dinner, heading for Shetland.
Tuesday, 29th May 2018 – Fair Isle, Shetland
Today we had a chance to sleep in as we had the morning at sea on our way north to Fair Isle. There were still activities on offer though. Some groups had the chance to do engine room tours followed by a demonstration of fruit carving by Chef Michael in the Andrea Lounge. He masterfully created a monkey and fish out of watermelons, lemons, radishes and olives among other things. It was delightful to see his skill in action. Before lunch we had our last recap and briefing, where Emma told us of our plans for Fair Isle and we learned some local myths and legends from Dave Riordan and all about seals and basking sharks from Colin Munro.
The Serenissima reached Fair Isle at lunchtime, but you couldn’t tell, as it was shrouded in a dense fog. What? Fog on this trip? That’s crazy! But this did not stop us from heading ashore in our Zodiacs. The drivers needed their GPS to navigate from the ship to shore. The Serenissima disappeared into the mist after a few hundred meters, like a ghost ship slipping away into the fog. Then the coastline appeared and we made our way into a sheltered little bay with a concrete pier and fulmar nests dotted among the sea thrift.
Fair Isle is located halfway between Orkney and Shetland, a tiny island (5 x 3 miles) with roughly 70 residents. But it packs a punch, home to numerous seabird colonies and migrating birds as well, making it an ideal spot for birders who come to the cliffs and bird observatory from April to October. The locals have also kept up the tradition of hand knitting the abundant sheep wool into hats, scarves and jumpers. Fair Isle knitwear is so acclaimed it was even used by Antarctic expeditions to keep the sailors warm. The locals showed us great hospitality, providing transport up to the community centre and museum in their cars for those that did not choose to walk the few miles across the island. The fog did not last either, for when we ascended from the harbour up onto the moors we were reunited with our sunshine, and the views over the island and out to sea were captivating. The houses were painted in jovial blues, reds and yellows. Even the churches were decorated in bright colours, adding a sense of whimsy to this remote wilderness. In the community hall, several residents had come to display and sell their colourful knitwear and they served us tea and cakes as well. In the surrounding fields we were able to spot skylarks, starlings, snipes and curlews and wildflowers added a splash of colour to the rolling hills. It was a magic afternoon on Fair Isle. We headed back into the fog to return to the ship, the island disappearing in the mist like a mirage in the middle of the ocean.
In the evening, we gathered in the Andrea Lounge once again to have cocktails with Captain Etien. We toasted a successful voyage and gave our appreciation to the crew which made our journey so smooth and memorable. Although we have another day of excursions tomorrow, we took this opportunity to dress up in our finest threads for our Farewell Dinner. The hotel team took centre stage as they presented our dessert, Baked Alaska, and serenaded us with a rendition of “Leaving on a Jet Plane” with Serenissima inserted into the chorus. We came alongside the pier in Kirkwall before retiring for the night.
Wednesday, 30th May 2018 – Kirkwall, Orkney
We awoke to slight rain and clouds for the first time this cruise! But no matter, it took only a few short hours for the sun to recover and claim the skies again. We came down the gangway and boarded the coaches with local Orkney guides for a morning tour of Mainland, the largest island in the archipelago. It’s a Neolithic wonderland, with ancient sites dotted around the whole island. On the tour, we visited the Ring of Brodgar, Skara Brae and Skaill House, and St. Magnus Cathedral in Kirkwall. The Ring of Brodgar is another excellent example of a 5000-year-old stone circle henge. Sixty or so standing stones form a vast circle with a ditch dug around it. The stones seem to draw you in with mosses and lichens giving them a burst of colour. We walked the ring and heard from our guides about how the site was likely linked to the seasons and celestial worship. The nearby Standing Stones of Stenness are further evidence of the importance of this site to Neolithic people inhabiting the island.
At Skara Brae, we stopped to take in the museum at the Visitor Centre and walked out to the coastline where this 5000-year-old village was uncovered from its hidden place by a storm which ripped off the covering topsoil 168 years ago. As you walk around the site, you can imagine what life was like for these ancient people, living by the sea in low stone houses in a clustered community. Nearby Skaill House, which we toured afterwards, contains plenty of period furniture and memorabilia collected by the Lairds of Orkney over the years. We drove the length of the island, dotted with small fishing villages and windswept landscapes, including Scapa Flow, famous for the place where the German fleet was scuttled in World War II and the Churchill Barriers which surround the natural bay. When we returned to Kirkwall, we had a walking tour of the town to the St. Magnus Cathedral, stunningly beautiful with its red and yellow sandstone blocks and magnificent interior. Very Norse in its theme, there are many hidden treasures inside, with statues of the patron saint and a memorial to those lost on the HMS Royal Oak and the local explorer John Rae among the highlights.
After our final lunch on board, many used the afternoon free time to explore more of Kirkwall while others went with a local guide out to Mull Head for a two hour walk around the dramatic coastline of eastern Mainland Orkney. From the blowhole at Gloup Head, formed by a collapsed sea cave, the guide took us along the sea cliffs to the old settlement at the Brough of Deerness and further to a viewpoint of Mull Head itself. As we sailed away from Kirkwall, we enjoyed some time on deck to soak in the atmosphere of this northern group of islands and reflected on the time spent aboard the Serenissima. After our dinner, we gathered one last time in the Andrea Lounge to view the Voyage Slideshow presented by Colin Munro from photos taken by him and the expedition team. While watching this, it was hard to believe how much we accomplished this voyage and the incredible weather we experienced.
Thursday, 31st May 2018 – Aberdeen, Scotland
Journey’s end. We collected our pilot and navigated into the harbour to come alongside at our final destination, Aberdeen. We collected our passports and said our goodbyes to a group of people that we had come to know over the last two weeks through laughter, great conversation and shared experiences. Going our separate ways, by bus, train and airplane, we realized what a special journey we had just completed. Sun soaked memories will be with us for years to come.