Gardens by the Sea
20th to 30th June 2021
MS Hebridean Sky
Sunday, 20th June 2021 - Portsmouth
Weather:sunny and warm, humid.
Because of the restrictions posed by this pervasive virus we started boarding for our first voyage since March 2019 at around 1200. In the terminal at Portsmouth Jane and Pru oversaw the arrangements and our nurse from the ship expedited the local antigen testing which helped things along. Once aboard there was plenty of food being served, with soup, sandwiches and cakes as well as tea available to help guests settle in and relax. Everyone was aboard shortly before 1600 and at 1700 we held the mandatory lifeboat drill where passengers donned cumbersome orange lifejackets to comply with the maritime regulations. By about 1730 we had a quintet of brass players – a couple of trumpets, a trombone, a tuba and a French horn assembled on the quay side to serenade us as we prepared the ship for departure on this inaugural voyage of the “new normal”. Without fuss the lines were let go and at 1800 we moved out into the stream to begin our ‘Gardens by the Sea” voyage. Chris, our geologist, gave a few words on the public address system outlining some of the buildings and ships that we passed en route into the Solent. He was scathing about the, probably expensive, technical disaster of Type 45 destroyers, of which there were three (of six) in various states of repair in the Royal Naval dockyard.
Shortly afterwards everyone reassembled in the lounge on deck 3 for an introduction from Hannah, our expedition leader, to the expedition staff who will be looking after everyone during the voyage, and this was followed by a briefing on how to operate in and around Zodiacs, the rubber boats which are part of our technique to give you best experience in some the remote places where we operate. Dinner, either on the Lido in the open air or in the restaurant, was enjoyed as we gently rounded the eastern end of the Isle of Wight and into the English Channel heading quietly for Dartmouth and points west.
Monday, 21st June 2021 - Dartmouth, Devon
Weather: overcast, frequent rain, moderate wind.
The weather was not inviting this morning. Shortly before 0800 we arrived off the estuary of the River Dart and in a choppy sea the pilot boat arrived to help guide us into this tricky anchorage. As we entered the river the slight motion of the ship ceased and we glided into a mooring position between two large yellow buoys attached by thick hawsers. After breakfast, a fleet of Zodiacs were lowered into the water and some of the guests opted to see the town of Dartmouth (on the west side of the river) or Kingswear on the east. Ferries continuously linked the two settlements and an occasional steam whistle from the Dart Valley railway pierced the air. For most of the remaining guests, after donning appropriate clothing for the weather, a cruise down the river towards the sea was organised. There were a number of castles and lots of interesting houses and of course small water craft to observe. Henry VIII castles have guarded this port since the 16th Century but the history of the town goes much further back with evidence of a fleet of ships being assembled during the 12th Century crusades. The Mayflower set sail for the New World from Dartmouth in 1620 and more recently a flotilla of hundreds of craft left for Utah Beach in 1944. An hour and half in the Zodiacs during the morning was sufficient to cover the area and a return was made for an early lunch and to dry out!
In the afternoon a shuttle of boats made the journey up river to the jetty at Greenway, the property owned by the famous crime writer Agatha Christie, now managed by the National Trust. An uphill meander through the temperate rain forest of the pathways of Greenway brought one to the house, which is a time capsule of the 1950’s and 60’s with so many artefacts on display. The weather was not so conducive to wander in the extensive gardens but they are worthy of a viewing. Because of the restrictive speed limit in the river, the transfer to and from the ship was a little extended but everyone was back aboard before 1800. Prior to dinner a short introduction and welcome from the Captain was supplemented with a glass of fizzy before Hannah gave a short briefing on the plans for tomorrow and Chris gave and explanation of the formation of the that we are in. Dinner was a lavish affair in the restaurant only due to the inclemency of the weather. Significant but a brief vibration of the ship during dinner signalled our departure from the confines of the River Dart as we commenced our journey towards the open sea and Fowey. A slight motion of the vessel was felt initially until we turned to round Start Point and with the wind and waves behind us a quiet night ensued.
Tuesday, 22nd June 2021 - Fowey, Cornwall
Weather: Sunny a.m., overcast and wind increasing in p.m. 18°C
Before breakfast this morning the Hebridean Sky assisted by a tug entered the narrow estuary (or ria!) of the River Fowey. The ship was swung in the river and then attached to a large mooring buoy upstream and secured with both port and starboard anchors forward so we were parallel to the river flow. Breakfast this morning was at 0700 because of a fairly early departure to the quayside in Fowey. The town from the ship was small and more or less uniform in aspect. Clearly most of the building had been there “forever”. Examination of the history of the town shows records going back into the mists of time with tales of smugglers, pirates and more legitimate professions. Today Fowey is perhaps best known as a holiday destination as well as the point of export of china clay from the quarries in nearby St Austell. However, our destination today was the “Lost Gardens of Heligan” with the stress on the _Li_, so Heligan. The first excitement was to get to the coaches which were parked at the top of the town as all the streets are mediæval and too narrow for modern public service vehicles of the size required. The town “land train”, basically a Land Rover towing a trailer with covered seats, was used to haul all the guests to a large car park at the top of the hill above the town. This took about 10 minutes up and about the same down which meant that the departure for the gardens was somewhat protracted but everyone had the same time in the gardens, which are located near Mevagissey, reached by passing through St Austell.
The weather was perfect and the gardens astonishing – considering that it was essentially an untamed mass of brambles and the likes a mere thirty or so years ago. Wonders have been wrought, including a grove of banana trees and pineapples growing in a frame, a perfect kitchen garden, as well as masses of bamboo and Gunnera (like giant rhubarb). Regretfully (for the author at least) only the kitchen garden was labelled, but perhaps over time that will change. A couple of hours was barely enough to take in all that there was to see, but soon we were retracing our steps through narrow Cornish roads skilfully negotiated by the coach drivers and to the car park at the top of Fowey. After a downhill stroll for some and a minibus available for others, we headed back to the pier.
Lunch on board either on the sun-kissed Lido or in the restaurant was followed by departure to either Fowey itself or to the start of the Fowey Hall walk which ended on Polruan after a couple of hours along the side of the ria. For others it was a return to the Zodiacs for an up-river cruise where the large loading jetties used for exporting china clay were viewed. Beyond that the river became the exclusive preserve of small yachts and boats which are at anchor in a series of moorings. Wildlife list included cormorants and shags, little egrets and herons, a buzzard and a pair of mute swans. We returned to the ship just in time to collect the walking group in Polruan. They had had a pleasant walk in the sunshine, and through the gorgeous woodlands. Once the final Zodiac was lifted the ship made ready for sea; a tug was again used to hold the ship in position against the ebb tide in the river, but we were soon out into a benign English Channel. A briefing from Hannah for Lundy tomorrow was followed by Jamie on seabirds and Craig on the lifecycle of jellyfish. A gentle roll with the seas behind us as we prepared for tomorrow.
Wednesday, 23rd June 2021 - Lundy Island
Weather: light wind, blue skies becoming overcast by late afternoon.
Hebridean Sky approached Lundy Island through a slight heat haze and arrived at our anchoring position off the south-east corner of the island at 0800. The operations started just before 0900 with the guests who had elected to do the “long”walk ferried ashore to a “wet” but dry landing achieved by using boxes as stepping stones to avoid the slight surf. Because of the extreme tidal range the pier and the old slipway were unusable and so it became a beach landing. For those who preferred not to make the climb to the plateau at c.120 metres, the island had provided a longwheel base Land Rover which ferried those to the vicinity of the pub (long before opening time), but most guests chose to walk up the road to the settlement, church and shop.
Various options of short and medium walks were offered but the four who had opted for the long walk were well on the way to the north end of the island. Chris was leading with James, one of our officer cadets, as support. The medium and short walks also had staff in attendance to provide a commentary on aspects of the island and the plants and animals. The long walk took a leisurely 2.5 hours to reach the north end, punctuated by stops to examine wheatear, pipits and indeed anything that took our fancy. Walks round the village and to the quarter wall and lighthouse proved popular in the warm sunshine and very light winds – in fact perfect weather.
A shuttle of boats returned most guests back to the ship for lunch before an afternoon Zodiac cruise round the southern end of the island. A tidal rip and overfalls caused by the strong currents made parts of the cruise interesting. Meanwhile the long walkers arrived back at the starting point around 1630 just before the first boats from the Zodiac cruise were returning. A recap and briefing included short pieces from Tina on how to use a QuietVox machine, Chris on bits of geology and Jamie talking seabirds. Every one of the guests had a lateral flow (Antigen) test today. Just after dinner the ship got underway and after a complete circumnavigation of Lundy Island, headed for Swansea where we had to be early to catch the high water tide to allow access into the dock. Light rain made it less encouraging to be out on deck to view the island.
Thursday, 24th June 2021 - Swansea, South Wales
Weather: light showers early and late, partially cloudy, sunny intervals, warm.
The ship entered the sea lock into Swansea Harbour basin at around 0530 this morning and there may have been a few guests who witnessed this event, but not many! After breakfast three coaches departed for walks of various lengths on the Gower Peninsula to the west of Swansea. Long, medium and shorter walkers were catered for as well as a scenic drive for those that chose not to walk. All routes were on well maintained tracks so, unlike yesterday there were no unmade surfaces. The scenery of the Gower reflects the underlying rocks, which are folded limestones giving rise to some spectacular views. The weather stayed dry and it gradually became quite warm through the morning with periods of strong sunshine. Bus One arrived back at the ship well before midday and the others around 1215 in time for lunch. During the afternoon everyone was back in the coaches for an hour-long drive through Llandeilo to the garden of Aberglasney. This proved to be another garden brought back from near-extinction to a point of exquisite beauty. The main house of the estate was still a work in progress but externally was an interesting building. However, supreme hard work and extensive planting had created a series of gardens within gardens each specialising in a particular aspect of horticulture. A large water-lily garlanded pond added to the scene. Woodland sections, more formal gardens, the kitchen garden and extensive manicured lawns contributed to the atmosphere. Two hours was barely enough to take in all the wonders of this garden and everyone was enthusiastic about the setting. Another hour back on the coach saw us at the ship just after 1800, in time for a shower before recaps from Jamie and Julia as well as a briefing from Hannah. Hebridean Sky remained in the basin in Swansea until the early hours of the morning to await the high (spring) tide to exit the lock, so a quiet night alongside was experienced.
Friday, 25th June 2021 - Ilfracombe and Clovelly
Weather: sunny intervals becoming overcast in late afternoon. Hint of light rain.
Just after 0600 Hebridean Sky slipped quietly from the dock basin into the sea lock and then out into the Bristol Channel making for Ilfracombe, where she arrived around 0800. The anchor was dropped and quickly it was realised that there was a 2-3 knot current sweeping past the vessel as the tide ebbed. The Zodiacs were dropped and stood by as the conditions were assessed at the marina where a Force 3 wind coupled with a westerly swell and the current made for lively conditions. A Zodiac was sent in to Ilfracombe harbour to determine the conditions but in the meantime it was considered that the operations at the ship were not safe to consider disembarking passengers. This was unfortunate as it would have been quite an event for the town where the town crier was waiting to greet passengers and the local Facebook page was buzzing with excitement. However it was not to be and after recovering the boats (and the wet expedition team) a run was made eastwards along the coast as far as Lynmouth and then westwards towards Clovelly which gave a good impression of the local scenery from a viewpoint not often observed.
In the late morning Scott gave a presentation of his experiences as an ex-marine employed in marine anti-piracy duties, an aspect of world policing which many would have been largely unaware. After lunch Hebridean Sky arrived off the small village of Clovelly, nestled in a narrow ravine. Stephen, the harbourmaster gave an introduction to Clovelly to guests before everyone got ready to go ashore to explore this unique and charming village. An incoming tide helped as the conditions on the shoreline improved as the afternoon went on. The street in Clovelly, with its single cobbled path was steep and traffic free except for the occasional wooden sledge to assist in bringing goods into the village from a car park at the top of the hill. Several shops and a Visitors Centre as well as a garden adjacent to the church were on the list of places of interest. The weather threatened to turn to rain in the late afternoon but fortunately it remained essentially dry for our visit. A recap and briefing included Hannah talking about the Isles of Scilly tomorrow, Tina on the Noble Caledonia Charitable Trust, Chris on the 2004 Boscastle and 1952 Lynmouth flooding disasters and Jamie on Cormorants, Shags and Gannets, before dinner was served as the ship headed southwestwards to Scilly.
Saturday, 26th June 2021 - St Marys Roads, Scilly for Tresco and St Mary’s
Weather: Cloudy bright in a.m. Long Sunny intervals, p.m. becoming warm.
Overnight the ship had passed the full length of the north coast of Cornwall and entered into the sheltered anchorage of St Mary’s Roads in the Isles of Scilly. The morning weather was clear with a slight breeze lifting chop on the sea as we settled into position between Hugh Town on St Mary’s and Tresco. The first landing party prepared the ground with the equipment for creating a safe mornings excursion and shortly the first Zodiac brought guests ashore six at a time. They were met at the Carn Near landing by Mike Nelhams, the Director of Tresco Abbey Gardens who provided a covered electric mini-bus for those that chose to ride in style to the garden entrance around half a mile inland. There an orientation was provided by Chris with maps available and a whole exotic garden to explore. It was only around half an hour later that the first non-ship visitor appeared at the entrance so we essentially had the garden to ourselves for some of the morning.
The weather continued to improve which made the delights of the garden even more stunning. Some guests chose to relax with a coffee in the pleasant café frequented by a large number of voracious sparrows intent on helping themselves to any unattended cake. Some guests chose to have a walk conducted by Julia and Jamie to the pond and along the shoreline on the lookout for birds and anything else of interest. All too soon was our time in this extensive property over and everyone made their way back to the landing and transport back to the vessel for lunch. A large St Mary’s Boatmen association launch was moored alongside the ship for our transport to Hugh Town on St Mary’s for the afternoon visit. Option included a visit with Hannah to Star Castle and the Garrison, which extended round the western headland of St Mary’s, others chose to stroll through Hugh Town at their own pace while the long walk with Chris made for Bant’s Carn, a Late Neolithic/Bronze Age Entrance Grave situated beyond the golf course to the east of Hugh Town.
On the way into the main pier of Hugh Town we paused to view a young male walrus, which has taken up residence in the bay and choses to sleep on any convenient boat that can carry his weight and is accessible from the water. On this occasion the ambulance launch was a suitable resting place. Everyone reconvened back at the pier on schedule at 1730 and could see that the walrus had moved (or been moved) to another craft and was in the process of being (unsuccessfully) discharged from that boat. The recap this evening before dinner covered this and other animals which had been seen in recently years in unusual locations outwith their normal range from Julia and further walrus details from Hannah. Hebridean Sky remained at anchor in St Mary’s Roads overnight ready for our excursions in the morning.
Sunday, 27th June 2021 - St Mary’s Roads for Bryher and St Agnes
Weather: strong NE breeze with light to moderate continuous rain.
The weather was not conducive to outdoor activities this morning but that did not deter a dozen hardy souls from getting clad for the weather and venturing onto the Sapphire for a short run over to Bryher. Once ashore a short orientation in dry shed before we all set off across the island, passing through Veronica Farm where they cultivate succulents and other high value crops in small patches of ground sheltered from the winds by hedges of Pittisporum and other salt- and wind-tolerant plants. Once the group reached the Great Pond adjacent to the Hell Bay Hotel there was a general reorganisation with a group wanting a longer walk heading off with Chris, Scott Julia and Craig to the north end of Bryher and the others with Hannah and Genna on a gentler stroll. However, in both instances the weather was wet and windy, more so at the north end of the island where the full force of the NE wind was felt. Meanwhile on board Tina was holding the fort while Jamie gave a talk in the lounge on the eco-systems present in the North Atlantic and in British waters. The return trip from Bryher was brought forward half an hour to 1030 given the inclement meteorological conditions. I am sure the hot chocolate in the Club was popular once the walkers had disrobed.
After lunch the afternoon excursion was almost a re-run of the morning conditions except it all happened on St Agnes, the furthest west of the islands. The launch was on time and a brave 12 guests boarded for the run to the island. The wind had perhaps increased a touch to c.30 knots and the rain was more persistent but that did not stop the birds from flying and seeking food – gannets, guillemots, razorbills, cormorants and shags and gulls were spotted on the run over to St Agnes. On arrival we split into several groups with Jamie taking a group to Gugh over the tombolo while Hannah and Julia took a moderate length walk across the island and Chris and Craig had the long walk which took in the western edge and made a “pit-stop” at the ice cream shop at Troy town farm. The groups on St Agnes also visited the church with its modern stained glass which was a temporary respite from the rain which by this time had increased in intensity. However, the island is not large and soon everyone was back outside the Turks Head hostelry sheltering under a temporary awning. The local ale was sampled by some, but in due course the launch had arrived back to collect us all. Further bird sightings included a large number of Manx shearwater which seemed to be enjoying the conditions. As soon as everyone was aboard preparations were made for our departure eastwards towards the mainland. There was a little movement of the ship in the conditions but this lessened considerably as we closed the land. Recap this evening included a briefing on Portland, Chris on a maritime disaster in 1707 in which the main character was washed up on a beach and led to the development of marine chronometers, and Jamie concluding his bird list of five most important bird groups in the North Atlantic.
Monday, 28th June 2021 - Portland Harbour
Weather: hint of rain early but clearing to give a blue-sky day. Warm.
Hebridean Sky approached Portland Harbour around breakfast time and by the time we were snug alongside the coaches were ready to take us on the various excursions planned for the day. One group headed for the Jurassic Coast sights of Durdle Door and Lulworth Cove. Here geological upheavals and subsequent erosion had created bays and beaches and a spectacular coastline in the rocks. Even JMW Turner the painter had immortalised Lulworth Cove in paint. A steep path both down and up was not for everyone but the effort and the views across to the Isle of Portland and eastwards to Kimmeridge and beyond was appreciated by everyone. Also the area surround Weymouth is full of archaeological structures from mediaeval through Roman to Bronze Age some of which was visible from the coach. The other excursion took us to Minterne, an estate near Cerne Abbass. The house and c.1400 acres of ground is owned by Lord Digby who was in residence to greet us. A full account of the history of his family was given before we were allowed to wander through some of the public rooms. Refreshments and scones were offered before a quick walk through a wonderful selection of rhododendrons, unusual trees and bits of history related to Capability Brown. A stop to view the Cerne Abbass giant in chalk above the eponymous village relieved the return journey. A brief intimation of the plans for tomorrow was presented by Hannah, before a sumptuous farewell dinner both in the restaurant and on the Lido deck. The ship departed into the English Channel at 2130 bound for Freshwater Bay on the Isle of Wight, leaving a handful of large cruise vessels lit up as they swing at anchor unused in Weymouth Bay.
Tuesday, 29th June 2021 - Isle of Wight
Weather: Largely overcast, light winds warm.
With the weather set to be calm the Expedition Leader Hannah decided that an interesting Zodiac cruise would be to view the Needles, a line of chalk pillars of the south-west of the Isle of Wight. Generally shipping stays well away from these rock stacks and the western access to Southampton and Portsmouth of Spithead. We arrived in Freshwater Bay and launched Zodiacs. A pod of bottle-nosed dolphins chose that moment to make an appearance but they were travelling and despite a fleeting sighting there was not much to see. With the sea conditions just right everyone headed over to the cliffs and to The Needles and an unusual view of these iconic sea stacks, where the water was rushing between the stacks as the tide ebbed. A hint of rain and overcast skies but only light winds did not make the cruise any less enjoyable. As soon as the operation was concluded on the south side of the island the ship moved round to anchor off Cowes on the Isle of Wight. Another two excursions were offered – to Osborne House, the one time favourite home of Queen Victoria with formal gardens and an Italianate architecture designed with help from Prince Albert. The other location was more modest but with a stunning display of drought resistant plants and a wildflower meadow in a garden around the house at Mottistone. Later in the evening we arrived alongside Portsmouth to complete our exploration of some of the ‘Gardens by the Sea’ of southern England and South Wales.
Wednesday, 30th June 2021 - Portsmouth
The end of a memorable voyage. Disembark in Portsmouth for our various routes home.